El massís del Montgrí vist per Josep Pla
Un amic m'ha demanat un recull de cites de Pla sobre el Montgrí i he pensat que potser per a la gent d'aquest rodal, per dir-ho planianament, serien també de prou interès. Són aquestes (les negretes són meves):
“De les Torretes (a Palafrugell) es veu, en dies clars, sobre el color de tórtora i de farigola de les muntanyes de Montgrí, la vila de Torroella coronada d’olivars aeris, flotant sobre les frondes pomposes de l’últim curs del Ter.” (Josep Pla, Edicions Destino, OC 7, p. 552)
(Des del Pedró de Pals) “En dies més mòrbids, més humits, de cel més gras, es produeix la màgia dels grisos, l’esmorteïment del verd de l’arròs, l’ensonyament de les aigües tocades per la llum densa, la blavissa vaguetat de les muntanyes, la flotant vaguetat de les frondes arbòries, la fusió de malves i violetes del Montgrí.” (OC 7, p. 694)
“(...) pocs quilòmetres abans d’arribar al mar, aquest riu es troba que segueix paral·lelament –des del terme d’Ullà– el massís del Montgrí. Aquestes muntanyes semblen augmentar la separació. En realitat, però, ni el riu ni les muntanyes no separen res. Es fa difícil trobar un empordanès que hagi donat mai la més petita importància a les muntanyes de Montgrí. Són muntanyes que es veuen, però és com si no existissin.
"(...) El massís del Montgrí no ha tingut sort. Res no ha pogut trencar-ne, fins ara, la indiferència general –indiferència que és perfectament compatible amb l’aplec que s’hi fa cada any a l’ermita per santa caterina i que té un interès local (de Torroella, Ullà i Sobrestany) evident. En realitat, el massís del Montgrí, no solament no té cap sentit separatiu, sinó que en definitiva no té cap classe de sentit. (...)
“El que no es podria, en tot cas, negar és que, dins la comarca, el massís del Montgrí té una gran visualitat. Es veu de tot arreu i es mira amb gran interès, sobretot perquè sobre la seva muntanya més alta, que és el Montgrí, hi ha un impressionant castell de pedra picada, fet construir per Jaume II per posar el fre del rei a les vel·leïtats feudals del comte d’Empúries (que havia construït la fortalesa de Bellcaire amb un to separatiu) i que ha tingut una admirable força de presència a través de les depredacions dels homes i de la destrucció del temps. (...) el castell s’ha mantingut i existeix i es troba tan ben posat que fa l’efecte que el Montgrí és una muntanya construïda per la naturalesa per servir-li d’escambell. És un element tan inseparable de la visió de l’Empordà, del panorama de l’Empordà mirat des de qualsevol lloc, que constitueix el botó de la roda de la comarca, la flor de pedra d’aquest país. De vegades he tingut la impressió –que potser compartiran alguns empordanesos– que la meva vida, en aquesta terra, no ha consistit en res més que a donar voltes a aquest castell. I, aquesta impressió, no l’he pas tinguda solament en viure-hi a prop: l’he tinguda trobant-me en qualsevol lloc del món on els meus ossos han arribat. A tot arreu.” (OC 7 p. 30-31)
“El barroc creà les ermites. Les ermites empordaneses, a peu pla, són gracioses i tenen un punt d’intranscendència amable, plena de simpatia. Al litoral, en canvi, hi ha tres ermites fenomenals, (...) que davant el panorama del mar agafaven un aire dramàtic de tendència depressiva, perquè, sense ser res de l’altre món, semblaven estar exactament col·locades per produir una sensació de l’infinit –almenys de l’infinit que podem comprendre els empordanesos. Són l’ermita de Cadaqués (...); l’ermita de Sant Sebastià de Palafrugell (...); i una mica a l’interior, dintre la flor mineral del Montgrí, l’ermita de Santa Caterina, al nord de les pedres del castell de Jaume II.” (OC 7, p 165-166)
“(...) Per a nosaltres, del país, aquestes muntanyes de Montgrí són molt típiques, molt estimades, i en el nostre esperit tenen una fixació obsessionant. Els de l’Alt Empordà les veuen molt lluny, però el seu perfil té en el seu record una perenne immutabilitat. Per a nosaltres, de l’Empordanet, aquestes muntanyes són més acostades i per això mateix de vegades no les veiem, o les oblidem, o no en fem cas. És igual. En el subjacent de la nostra vida física, hi portem dibuixat el perfil d’aquestes muntanyes arcaiques, mortes, sense reacció possible, elefentiàsiques, geològicament parlant. Són muntanyes que no ens fan gens de por, que ens inspiren confiança, i per això mateix és com si no existissin per a nosaltres.”
(OC 7, p 464)
“En tot cas, el castell del Montgrí és el botó de roda de l’Empordà, fins al punt que es pot dir que la nostra vida consisteix a anar voltant aquest castell, per terra i per mar. Les muntanyes que el suporten tenen una nuesa mineral, però el seu perfil és d’una dolçor fascinadora. Són d’un color de coll de tórtora sobre un fons de flor de farigola, morada.” (OC 7, p 465)
“Des de l’emplaçament de la casa (el xalet d’en Coll a la platja de Pals), magnífic panorama sobre la platja de Pals, el pla de Torroella, les muntanyes de Montgrí –gris-perla-rosades–, les Medes i el Pirineu. El pla de Torroella, fèrtil, feraç, elegant, adormit sobre la boirina que flota sobre el Ter o –en dies clars– dibuixat en una llum de cristall, d’una claredat divina, és de contemplació reposada i serena.” (OC 30, p. 196)
“(...) el massís muntanyós del Montgrí, de color de farigola i d’ala de tórtora, que té en el seu punt més elevat el famós castell de Santa Caterina, de perfil inoblidable. La mola d’aquesta pedra gòtica i venerable forma el botó de roda de la comarca. És visible des de tots els punts de la roda i constitueix l’imant que centra totes les mirades” (OC 30, p. 783)
“Aquest vessant muntanyós (el de l’Estartit i el cap de la Barra) té un aspecte aspre i pobre, com tota la muntanya de Torroella, que és un dels paisatges entre feudals i ascètics més típics de Catalunya. Els dies molt clars aquests penyalars tenen una coloració metàl·lica –gris plata amb un halo vermellenc– que sembla espurnejar. Quan hi ha un lleuger tel de boirina, tenen una vaga coloració verda, surten unes taques com d’herba seca i d’espígol, els morats de la farigola i els grisos del pedruscall prenen la suavitat del plomatge de les tórtores.” (OC 30, p. 211)
“EL CASTELL DE MONTGRÍ: BOTÓ DE LA RODA DE L’EMPORDÀ
Mirava il ciel sereno,
le vie dorate e gli orti
e quindi il mar, da lungi, e quindi il monte.
G. Leopardi. “A Silvia”
“Si es vol tenir una idea passablement panoràmica de les terres de l’Empordà s’ha de fer un petit sacrifici: s’ha de pujar al castell situat al punt més alt de les muntanyes de Montgrí. Aquestes muntanyes són seques, rocoses, minerals, erosionades, despoblades de botànica, grisenques, amb un parpelleig colorístic morat, malva i tórtora, que a vegades queda ratllat pel vol de les perdius. El castell que apareix al seu punt més elevat és el botó de roda de l’Empordà.
“Les muntanyes de Montgrí fan, amb el seu mur petri que va de llevant a ponent, dos compartiments. Del castell fins al Pirineu es produeix l’estesa de l’Alt Empordà. Cap al sud es manifesta l’Empordà petit, que és més ondulat. Des d’aquestes discretes altures –que en qualsevol altre país tindrien una carretera potable per arribar-hi– es domina un gran, prodigiós panorama de mar; la línia de les muntanyes pirinenques dominades pel Canigó i les muntanyes de ponent: la Garrotxa i la Gavarra. Aquest panorama a quatre vents forma un conjunt que fa un cert efecte, perquè la conjunció, a tan poca distància, de l’alta muntanya –el Canigó té gairebé 3.000 metres–, les terres de l’arròs i dels fruiterars i el mar constitueixen un considerable espectacle.
“Els empordanesos, sigui quin sigui el nostre lloc de residència, tenim el castell de Montgrí davant els ulls tota la vida. Només hem d’obrir la finestra o fer quatre passes perquè se’ns aparegui. I el curiós és que com més el mirem, més ens agrada. No ens cansem mai de mirar-lo. I quan som fora del país el portem en la nostra memòria més íntima, personal i callada.“El castell de Montgrí, centre de la roda de l’Empordà, no es construí pas, però, per veure un panorama des d’un lloc adequat. (...)
“(...) el castell de Montgrí, que domina tota la nostra comarca, que n’és el centre, en constitueix el pivot. És, en primer lloc, un document històric. Les seves pedres representen el triomf del poder reial sobre el feudalisme senyorial i, d’una manera no tan visible però real, sobre el feudalisme eclesiàstic. És un document que recorda, en aquest espai de terra, el procés de la vida purament local o comarcal del feudalisme a una convivència més general, a una integració nacional. Després hi ha el panorama geogràfic que des del castell s’albira. Gran panorama de terra i de mar. Però, per a arribar-hi, no hi ha pas gaires facilitats.”
(OC 9, p. 415-419)
“L’única cosa que per la seva llunyania i la seva inaccessibilitat es manté en peu i resisteix les tramuntanades hivernals i els efectes d’una climatologia inclement és, com ja hem dit, el castell de Montgrí, que constitueix el botó de la roda de l’Empordà i el centre de totes les nostres mirades.” (OC 9, p. 425-426)
“(...) si volen veure els dos Empordans des d’un punt central, pugin al Montgrí –no pas al santuari, sinó al castell. Els agradarà molt. Si m’envien una postal, els ho agrairé moltíssim.” (OC 35, p. 359)
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Benvinguts
Em dic Miquel Bofill i Abelló. Sóc senador per la circumscripció de Girona de l’Entesa Catalana de Progrés (PSC-ERC-ICV-EUiA) i un dels quatre senadors d’Esquerra Republicana de Catalunya que formen part d’aquesta coalició catalanista d’esquerres al Senat.
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