Text gairebé literal del parlament que vaig fer en la presentació del llibre El Baix Empordà de Vicenç Pagès (text) i Jordi Puig (fotos).
Per fi, després de mesos de temptatives, presentem aquest fantàstic llibre sobre el Baix Empordà, una bona ocasió per polemitzar sobre el nostre país una de les nostres passions empordaneses, i espero no privar-me de deixar anar algunes opinions prou discutibles.
En primer lloc, però, permeteu-me que feliciti els autors.
Vicenç Pagès que s’ha esforçat per oferir-nos en un text personal, en el punt de vista i en l’estil, una visió de conjunt del nostre petit món i crec que ho ha aconseguit més enllà de les pressions que suposava fer un llibre encarregat per una institució com el Consell Comarcal, que quan parla del Baix Empordà es refereix forçosament a un espai amb uns límits clars, administratius, amb uns municipis que volen sortir tots a la foto i ser “ben tractats” en el mal sentit de la paraula, és a dir que voldrien una imatge ensucrada i sempre lluminosa dels seus pobles, sense adonar-se que sovint són els clarobscurs i els racons menys emblemàtics que els fan més encantadors.
Jordi Puig és qui millor ens pot parlar d’això, perquè és un veritable mestre de la imatge, un dels millors fotògrafs del moment, capaç de captar amb la mirada el detall significatiu, com el nostre barber del carrer de Primitiu Artigas, capaç d’administrar la llum, de veure una llum especial de l’Empordanet diferent de la de la plana altempordanesa (espero que després ens ho expliqui això).
També cal felicitar l’editorial. Triangle una petita editorial menorquina que pel seu rigor i la seva autoexigència ha fet forat en el mercat del llibre català de gamma alta. Només cal veure la qualitat d’aquest llibre o els que ha fet sobre Dalí.
I el Consell Comarcal. Finalment és ell qui va prendre la iniciativa d’encarregar aquest llibre i d’arriscar-se a una iniciativa si voleu de propaganda i difusió de la comarca, però de nivell cultural i de qualitat. Es va arriscar a una empresa poc rendible en el curt termini i va fer confiança segurament a alguns d’entre els millors professionals possibles (autor dels textos, fotògraf i editorial) i ara en veiem el resultat. Ens en felicitem. Cal dir que ens va agradar tant que vam fer passos per reeditar la fórmula però en un llibre sobre Torroella i l’Estartit, que coordinava des del Servei de Publicacions de l’Ajuntament de Torroella. Recordeu la foto col·lectiva de Santa Caterina i el seu autor, Jordi Puig? Doncs era per a aquest projecte que esperem poder ajudar a tirar endavant.
Tornem, però, a El Baix Empordà. Calia aquest llibre perquè a través d’unes imatges magnífiques ens recorda la realitat, l’existència del nostre país petit, aquest Empordanet, microcosmos de com ens agradaria, almenys personalment m’agradaria, que fos el món.
Un país molt petit arran de mar, mediterrani, amb varietat de paisatges ben emmarcats, amables no tan sols per la geografia sinó perquè la tradició ibèrico-greco-romano-catalana els ha anat dibuixant a mesura humana:
camps ben delimitats a la plana o en un replà a muntanya,
aigües cada cop més controlades,
xiprers per protegir els horts de les tramuntanades...,
fins i tot la nostra muntanya més venerada, i més arida també, cal reconèixer, (el Montgrí)
té una forma humana, bisbe o dona,
que hem acabat de completar i d’humanitzar amb un anell o millor mugró, com jo prefereixo veure’l, en forma de castell
(al marge d’altres possibilitats que ens apunten la ciència de les solucions imaginàries i el nostre amic Pagès, Jordi, en aquest cas, sobre una acció humana per donar als tres putjos més singulars del Montgrí les tres formes més universals –triangle, rodona i quadrat-).
Sigui com sigui, és bo que un llibre ens recordi el nostre petit país, perquè ens cal recordar-lo.
La pressió forastera i el nostre deixar arrossegar-nos per un centripetisme gironí, que s’ha accentuat amb la Girona ciutat universitària,
ens l’han desdibuixat una mica.
Val a dir que ser una mica desdibuixat forma part de les essències de l’Empordà Jussà (també podríem recuperar aquesta antiga denominació i tindríem un Empordà Sobirà i un Empordà Jussà, que és una altra manera de dir el mateix amb unes paraules que potser sonen millor perquè han perdut el seu ús més quotidià).
A diferència d’altres comarques del nostre entorn, el nostre Empordà no gira al voltant d’un nucli central com és per exemple Figueres per a l’Empordà Sobirà; sinó que aquí tenim molts centres, moltes capitals que es disputen les seves zones d’influència per la vitalitat dels seus mercats, de les seves ofertes escolars i de serveis, de les seves activitats culturals..., moltes capitals que més que disputar-se tendeixen a ignorar-se en la seva autosuficiència, cosa, d’altra banda, ben pròpia de qualsevol capital.
A casa nostra, però, es dóna l’especial circumstància que tots els pobles són (o han estat, perquè no sé si això ja s’està perdent definitivament) un petit univers en si, es pensen com a capital de nuclis més petits fins a arribar als masos,
Masos que saben del cert que finalment els centres són ells i que els diversos pobles on van a mercat o a fer-hi qualsevol activitat no són més que la seva perifèria, la perifèria d’una activitat pagesa que un dia va ser essencialment autosuficient.
(Pla es fa ressò com d’una gran veritat d’una anècdota típicament empordanesa d’un de Pals que deia que els dels Masos eren més llestos que els de Pals, els de Pals més llestos que els de la Bisbal, els de la Bisbal més que els de Girona, els de Girona més que els de Barcelona, i els de Barcelona més que els de Madrid...)
El Baix Empordà és un mosaic, un calidoscopi cultural i històric que permet múltiples interpretacions;
l’especificitat és que totes són certes, part d’un conjunt més ampli de vegades difícil de copsar.
En un espai tan petit trobem la fusió de la mar i l’horta, del “calamar i l’escudella” com diu en Vicenç, del pagès-pescador o de pescador-pagès, jo fins i tot ho he viscut a Pals, vila de pagès pagès (un dels pobles on encara hi ha més pagesos de la comarca), on recordo que se salava encara quan es parlava de les coses de marc, i senties dir que aniríem a sa barraca i agfaríem sa xalana... Pals on és tradició l’endemà de la festa major anar a fer una musclada i un arròs a la vora del mar.
Al nostre Empordanet, hi trobem en petit de tot. La cultura de l’aiguamoll i de l’arròs, i la de la mesopotàmia empordanesa, entre el Montgrí i el Fluvià.
Per cert, ja que hi som podríem entretenir-nos a fixar el límit nord del Baix Empordà, que jo, contràriament a en Vicenç que reivindica una Terroella altempordanesa, em sembla bé on és i posats a fer el faria arribar fins al Fluvià, com havia proposat algun geògraf. D’altra banda a la costa si considerem el Montgrí i el Ter Baix Empordà, ens n’hauríem d’anar fins a Empúries, cosa culturalment ben certa, encara que també prou discutible, ho reconec, perquè ja som al golf de Roses; en qualsevol cas que quedi clar que Montgó és nostro.
Continuant amb el mosaic social i de costums i històries baixempordaneses, hi trobem encara més varietat de cultures, més o menys persistents, lligades a maneres de viure i de fer:
la de les bòbiles i les rajoleries, a la Bisbal o a Fonteta, però també a Regincós i Pals (jo sóc de cal Rajoler);
la dels corallers de Begur i l’Estartit;
la de les antigues salaons;
la de la vinya, persistent al pla de Calonge i Vallobrega;
la del suro, a Palafrugell, i als boscos de Fitor...
per no parlar d’havaneres, d’americanus, de suquets de peix, de nius, de pollastres amb escamarlans, de sardanes i de músics...
I no he dit res de les pedres i monuments.
Si tots hi diguéssim la nostra, espero que després en tinguem l’ocasió, faríem un llistat impressionant i riquíssim.
Aquest llibre ens en dóna un tast prou ampli.
Deixeu-me tornar, però, al tema inacabable dels límits i l’extensió. La comarca és més una dimensió humana que geogràfica. Podrem discutir els límits, però hi ha un moment quan venim de Figueres o de Girona que tots els d’aquest rodal sabem que ja som o comencem a ser a casa: allí comença el nostre petit país. I ningú no discutirà que hi ha un pinyol central, uns paisatges de Palau Sator a Gualta o cap a Cruïlles, en el quadrat d’or que espero que en Vicenç ens descrigui després tan bé com fa en el seu llibre. Cap al sud la cosa es posa més difícil, em costa veure la Vall d’Aro empordanesa, però m’agrada tenir al sud una gran vila marinera com Sant Feliu, com diu el llibre “la mort administrativa de la comarca es produeix entre Sant Feliu i Tossa”.
A proposit de l’extensió, 700 km2, centenars de pobles i 100.000 persones, una mida ideal, ja potser massa gran, en Vicenç diu “comarca tan reduïda que no hi ha prou espai perquè hi passi cap tren ni autopista”. Cosa a la qual només puc afegir “Déu i ara sobretot els germans Nadal t’escoltin”, i més val que no ens adormim i estiguem alerta a veure com pensen continuar la C131 després de Montras cap a Verges.
I ja deixo la paraula a en Vicenç i a en Jordi.
Us recomano de la manera més viva aquest llibre, un llibre per tenir el nostre petit país a l’abast. Un llibre per fullejar-lo, per entrar en les seves imatges, tant per als moments de desànim com per quan ens vulguem inspirar per fer una passejada. Un llibre per aprendre a mirar i valorar el petit detall, la llum tènue del vespre que il·lumina una pedra o una porta de fusta corcada. Un llibre en què sempre hi trobarem motiu per dir-nos que finalment som molt afortunats de respirar i sentir, de viure, en aquest racó de món.
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